Examining shoreface disequilibrium morphodynamics and their influence on
shoreline change
Abstract
The lower shoreface, a transitional subaqueous region extending from the
seaward limit of the surf zone to beyond the closure depth, often serves
as a sediment sink or source in sandy beach environments over annual to
millennial time scales. Despite its important role in shoreline
dynamics, however, the morphodynamics of the lower shoreface remain
poorly understood. This knowledge deficit is partly due to the absence
of sediment compositional data across the seabed and to the challenges
inherent in measuring subtle bed changes (mm-cm/yr) over historical time
scales. It is also unclear how diverse lithologies and long-term changes
in wave climate influence shoreface morphodynamics as previous work
often considers these steady-state systems in equilibrium. To better
understand the controls on shoreface dynamics, we extend an existing
energetics-based framework to model sediment transport across
theoretical shoreface equilibrium profiles under various physical and
geologic disequilibrium conditions. We further incorporate varying
shoreline input flux scenarios (i.e., accretion, erosion) to investigate
potential coastline inheritance controls on shoreface evolution.
Equilibrium profile shapes and disequilibrium sediment transport rates
are more sensitive to changes in sediment settling velocity than wave
period, indicating that grain size provides a strong geologic control on
shoreface morphodynamics. We find that at depths greater than 20 meters,
shallow water wave assumptions predict larger sediment transport rates
(~1-8 orders of magnitude) than linearly shoaled waves.
Furthermore, for linear wave theory, we find an abrupt, discontinuous
offshore transition where the bed response to changing wave climates
becomes exceptionally slow. Our results provide insight into the
sediment dynamics that drive the spatiotemporal evolution of the
shoreface, improving our understanding of the interactions between
onshore and nearshore processes and geological inheritance.